Next-Generation Sunscreen Science: Advances in UV Filters, Photoprotection and Formulation Strategies - Insights from Lacto Calamine®
Abstract
Sunscreens play an important role in providing photoprotection, by minimizing adverse effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin. This review focuses on the analysis of sunscreens and their categorization as chemical, physical, new generation, and encapsulated according to the mechanism of photoprotection that each of these groups have. Detailed information is provided about the design of skin type-specific sunscreens, including recommendations for oily, combination, dry and sensitive, Sun protection factor (SPF), persistent pigment darkening (PPD), critical wavelength, and photostability as key physicochemical properties of sunscreens and global regulations on these products are reviewed. This article also provides an overview of the Lacto Calamine® sunscreen formulation’s consumer-centric approach to photoprotection by integrating scientifically selected UV filters with elegant formulation design to cater to the evolving needs of Indian consumers, particularly those with oily and combination skin.
Conclusion: The review explains how sunscreens are essential for protecting against UV-induced damage, including sunburn, tanning, photoaging and skin cancer. Advances in UV filters and formulation technologies have improved efficacy and user experience, while SPF, UVA-PF, critical wavelength, and photostability support performance evaluation. Lacto Calamine® Sunscreen is well positioned to deliver lightweight, effective everyday photoprotection for Indian consumers, with future innovation focused on multifunctional, sustainable and personalized solutions.
References
Narayanan DL, Saladi RN, Fox JL. Ultraviolet radiation and skin cancer. Int J Dermatol [Internet]. 2010 Sep [cited 2026 Jul 22];49(9):978-986. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-4632.2010.04474.x
Mancebo SE, Wang SQ. Skin cancer: role of ultraviolet radiation in carcinogenesis. Rev Environ Health [Internet]. 2014 [cited 2026 Jul 22];29(3):265-273. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1515/reveh-2014-0041
Gabros S, Patel P, Zito PM. Sunscreens and photoprotection. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2026 Jan- [updated 2025 Mar 28; cited 2026 Jul 22]. Available from:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK537164/
World Health Organization. Ultraviolet radiation and the INTERSUN programme [Internet]. Geneva: World Health Organization; 2017 [cited 2026 Jul 22]. Available from: https://www.who.int/initiatives/intersun-programme
Linos E, Keiser E, Kanzler M, Sainani KL, Lee W, Vittinghoff E, et al. Sun protective behaviors and vitamin D levels in the US population: NHANES 2003-2006. Cancer Causes Control [Internet]. 2012 Jan [cited 2026 Jul 22];23(1):133-140. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1007/s10552-011-9861-8
Burnett ME, Wang SQ. Current sunscreen controversies: a critical review. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed [Internet]. 2011 Apr [cited 2026 Jul 22];27(2):58-67. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0781.2011.00557.x
Diffey BL. Solar ultraviolet radiation effects on biological systems. Phys Med Biol [Internet]. 1991 Mar [cited 2026 Jul 22];36(3):299-328. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1088/0031-9155/36/3/001
Ikehata H, Ono T. The mechanisms of UV mutagenesis. J Radiat Res [Internet]. 2011 Mar [cited 2026 Jul 22];52(2):115-125. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1269/jrr.10175
Kohl E, Steinbauer J, Landthaler M, Szeimies RM. Skin ageing. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol [Internet]. 2011 Aug [cited 2026 Jul 22];25(8):873-884. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-3083.2010.03963.x
Soehnge H, Ouhtit A, Ananthaswamy ON. Mechanisms of induction of skin cancer by UV radiation. Front Biosci [Internet]. 1997 Nov 1 [cited 2026 Jul 22];2:d538-d551. Available from:
Jansen R, Osterwalder U, Wang SQ, Burnett M, Lim HW. Photoprotection: part II. Sunscreen: development, efficacy, and controversies. J Am Acad Dermatol [Internet]. 2013 Dec [cited 2026 Jul 22];69(6):867.e1-867.e14. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2013.08.022
Shih BB, Ferguson J, Gibbs NK, Diffey BL. UV radiation, skin cancer and the skin microbiome. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed [Internet]. 2021 Nov [cited 2026 Jul 22];37(6):483-489. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1111/phpp.12680
Goh CL, Chuah SY, Tien S, Thng G, Vitale MA, Delgado-Rubin A. Double-blind, placebo-controlled trial to evaluate the effectiveness of Polypodium leucotomos extract in the treatment of melasma in Asian skin: a pilot study. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol [Internet]. 2018 Mar [cited 2026 Jul 22];11(3):14-19. Available from:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5843350/
Svobodova A, Walterova D, Vostalova J. Ultraviolet induced alteration to the skin. Biomed Pap Med Fac Univ Palacky Olomouc Czech Repub [Internet]. 2006 Jun [cited 2026 Jul 22];150(1):25-38. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.5507/bp.2006.003
Gilchrest BA, Soter NA, Stoff JS, Mihm MC Jr. The human sunburn reaction: histologic and biochemical studies. J Am Acad Dermatol [Internet]. 1981 Nov [cited 2026 Jul 22];5(4):411-422. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1016/S0190-9622(81)80009-1
Madan V, Lear JT, Szeimies RM. Non-melanoma skin cancer. Lancet [Internet]. 2010 Feb 20 [cited 2026 Jul 22];375(9715):673-685. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1016/S0140-6736(09)61196-X
Cavinato M, Waltenberger B, Baraldo G, Grade CVC, Stuppner H, Jansen-Dürr P. Plant extracts and natural compounds used against UVB-induced photoaging. Biogerontology [Internet]. 2017 Aug [cited 2026 Jul 22];18(4):499-516. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1007/s10522-017-9715-0
Flament F, Bazin R, Laquieze S, Rubert V, Simonpietri E, Piot B. Effect of the sun on visible clinical signs of aging in Caucasian skin. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol [Internet]. 2013 Sep 27 [cited 2026 Jul 22];6:221-232. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S44686
Kiriiri G, Mwangi AN, Maru SM. Sunscreen products: rationale for use, formulation development and regulatory considerations. Saudi Pharm J [Internet]. 2019 Nov [cited 2026 Jul 22];27(7):1009-1018. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jsps.2019.08.003
Green AC, Williams GM, Logan V, Strutton GM. Reduced melanoma after regular sunscreen use: randomized trial follow-up. J Clin Oncol [Internet]. 2011 Jan 20 [cited 2026 Jul 22];29(3):257-263. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1200/JCO.2010.28.7078
Autier P, Boniol M, Severi G, Doré JF. Quantity of sunscreen used by European students. Br J Dermatol [Internet]. 2001 Feb [cited 2026 Jul 22];144(2):288-291. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-2133.2001.04016.x
Wang SQ, Lim HW. Current status of the sunscreen regulation in the United States: 2011 Food and Drug Administration's final rule on labeling and effectiveness testing. J Am Acad Dermatol [Internet]. 2011 Oct [cited 2026 Jul 22];65(4):863-869. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2011.07.025
Gasparro FP. Sunscreens, skin photobiology, and skin cancer: the need for UVA protection and evaluation of efficacy. Environ Health Perspect [Internet]. 2000 Mar [cited 2026 Jul 22];108 Suppl 1:71-78. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1289/ehp.00108s171
Schlumpf M, Kypke K, Wittassek M, Angerer J, Mascher H, Mascher D, et al. Exposure patterns of UV filters, fragrances, parabens, phthalates, organochlor pesticides, PBDEs, and PCBs in human milk: correlation of UV filters with use of cosmetics. Chemosphere [Internet]. 2010 Nov [cited 2026 Jul 22];81(10):1171-1183. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.chemosphere.2010.07.043
Chatelain E, Gabard B. Photostabilization of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate by bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S), a new UV broadband filter. Photochem Photobiol [Internet]. 2001 Sep-Oct [cited 2026 Jul 22];74(3):401-406. Available from:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11594052/
Shaath NA. Ultraviolet filters. Photochem Photobiol Sci [Internet]. 2010 Apr [cited 2026 Jul 22];9(4):464-469. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1039/B9PP00174C
Matta MK, Zusterzeel R, Pilli NR, Patel V, Volpe DA, Florian J, et al. Effect of sunscreen application under maximal use conditions on plasma concentration of sunscreen active ingredients: a randomized clinical trial. JAMA [Internet]. 2019 May 6 [cited 2026 Jul 22];321(21):2082-2091. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1001/jama.2019.5586
Latha MS, Martis J, Shobha V, Shinde RS, Bangera S, Krishnankutty B, et al. Sunscreening agents. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol [Internet]. 2013 Jan [cited 2026 Jul 22];6(1):16-26. Available from:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3543289/
Pinnell SR, Fairhurst D, Gillies R, Mitchnick MA, Kollias N. Microfine zinc oxide is a superior sunscreen ingredient to microfine titanium dioxide. Dermatol Surg [Internet]. 2000 Apr [cited 2026 Jul 22];26(4):309-314. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1524-4725.2000.99237.x
US Food and Drug Administration. Sunscreen drug products for over-the-counter human use [Internet]. Silver Spring (MD): US Food and Drug Administration; 2019 [cited 2026 Jul 22]. Available from:
Downs CA, Kramarsky-Winter E, Segal R, Fauth J, Knutson S, Bronstein O, et al. Toxicopathological effects of the sunscreen UV filter, oxybenzone (benzophenone-3), on coral planulae and cultured primary cells and its environmental contamination in Hawaii and the US Virgin Islands. Arch Environ Contam Toxicol [Internet]. 2016 Feb [cited 2026 Jul 22];70(2):265-288. Available from: https://doi.org/10.1007/s00244-015-0227-7
Serpone N, Dondi D, Albini A. Inorganic and organic UV filters: their role and efficacy in sunscreens and suncare products. Inorg Chim Acta [Internet]. 2007 Feb 15 [cited 2026 Jul 22];360(3):794-802. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ica.2005.12.057
Osterwalder U, Sohn M, Herzog B. Global state of sunscreens. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed [Internet]. 2014 Apr-Jun [cited 2026 Jul 22];30(2-3):62-80. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1111hpp.12112
Rinnerthaler M, Bischof J, Streubel MK, Trost A, Richter K. Oxidative stress in aging human skin. Biomolecules [Internet]. 2015 Apr 21 [cited 2026 Jul 22];5(2):545-589. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.3390/biom5020545
Matsui MS, Hsia A, Miller JD, Hanneman K, Scull H, Cooper KD, et al. Non-sunscreen photoprotection: antioxidants add value to a sunscreen. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc [Internet]. 2009 Aug [cited 2026 Jul 22];14(1):56-59. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1038/jidsymp.2009.14
Chen AC, Martin AJ, Choy B, Fernandez-Penas P, Dalziell RA, McKenzie CA, et al. A phase 3 randomized trial of nicotinamide for skin-cancer chemoprevention. N Engl J Med [Internet]. 2015 Oct 22 [cited 2026 Jul 22];373(17):1618-1626. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1056/NEJMoa1506197
Lacatusu I, Badea N, Ovidiu O, Bojin D, Meghea A. Highly antioxidant carotene-stearic acid based nanostructured lipid carriers for sun care protection. J Nanopart Res [Internet]. 2012 [cited 2026 Jul 22];14:1-14. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1007/s11051-012-0725-0
Therapeutic Goods Administration, Australian Government. Literature review on the safety of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in sunscreens [Internet]. Canberra: TGA; [cited 2026 Jul 22]. Available from:
Schlossman D, Shao Y. Inorganic ultraviolet filters. In: Shaath NA, editor. Sunscreens: regulations and commercial development. 3rd ed. Boca Raton (FL): CRC Press/Taylor & Francis Group [Internet]. 2005 [cited 2026 Jul 22]. p.239-278. Available from:
Bohren CF, Huffman DR. Absorption and scattering of light by small particles [Internet]. New York (NY): Wiley; 1983 [cited 2026 Jul 22]. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1002/9783527618156
Hoffmann MR, Martin ST, Choi W, Bahnemann DW. Environmental applications of semiconductor photocatalysis. Chem Rev [Internet]. 1995 Jan [cited 2026 Jul 22];95(1):69-96. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1021/cr00033a004
Tarras-Wahlberg N, Stenhagen G, Larko O, Rosen A, Wennberg AM, Wennerstrom O. Changes in ultraviolet absorption of sunscreens after ultraviolet irradiation. J Invest Dermatol [Internet]. 1999 Oct [cited 2026 Jul 22];113(4):547-553. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1523-1747.1999.00721.x
Agin PP. Water resistance and extended wear sunscreens. Dermatol Clin [Internet]. 2006 Jan [cited 2026 Jul 22];24(1):75-79. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.det.2005.08.006
Couteau C, Coiffard LJ. How to choose a sunscreen: explanation of labeling of photoprotective products. Ann Pharm Fr [Internet]. 2015 Jul [cited 2026 Jul 22];73(4):258-264. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.pharma.2015.02.001
Kohli M, Srinivas CR, Saraswat A, Ganjoo A, Kathed A, Patel G, et al. Practical recommendations for Indians on sunscreen use—a modified Delphi consensus by Indian Sunscreen Forum (PRISM-ISF). J Cosmet Dermatol [Internet]. 2025 Sep [cited 2026 Jul 22];24(9):e70441. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.70441
Ganpur P, Khandagale S, Gupta A, Prasad N, Jaiswal T, Ghadge O. A comprehensive review of sunscreen: formulation approaches, active ingredients, skin-type-based selection, nanotechnology, and regulatory considerations. Asian J Pharm Res Dev [Internet]. 2026 [cited 2026 Jul 22];14(2):152-162. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.22270/ajprd.v14i2.1555
Baki G, Alexander KS. Sun care products. In: Introduction to cosmetic formulation and technology [Internet]. Hoboken (NJ): John Wiley & Sons; 2015 [cited 2026 Jul 22]. p.273-309. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1002/9781118423008
Pathak MA, Fitzpatrick TB, Greiter F, Kraus EW. Principles of photoprotection in sunburn and suntanning, and topical and systemic photoprotection in health and disease. In: Pathak MA, Harber LC, Seiji M, Kukita A, editors. Sunlight and man [Internet]. Tokyo: University of Tokyo Press; 1974 [cited 2026 Jul 22]. p.725-749. Available from:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/4008728/
International Organization for Standardization. ISO 24444:2019. Cosmetics—sun protection test methods—in vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) [Internet]. Geneva: ISO; 2019 [cited 2026 Jul 22]. Available from:
https://www.iso.org/standard/72250.html
Diffey BL, Robson J. A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum. J Soc Cosmet Chem [Internet]. 1989 [cited 2026 Jul 22];40(3):127-133. Available from:
https://scispace.com/pdf/a-new-substrate-to-measure-sunscreen-protection-factors-b8j0ozn57f.pdf
Herzog B. Prediction of sun protection factors by calculation of transmittances of sunscreen formulations. J Cosmet Sci [Internet]. 2002 Jan-Feb [cited 2026 Jul 22];53(1):11-26. Available from:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27045276/
International Organization for Standardization. ISO 24442:2022. Cosmetics—sun protection test methods—in vivo determination of sunscreen UVA photoprotection [Internet]. Geneva: ISO; 2022 [cited 2026 Jul 22]. Available from:
https://www.iso.org/standard/77141.html
Moyal D. UVA protection labeling and in vitro testing methods. Photochem Photobiol Sci [Internet]. 2010 Apr [cited 2026 Jul 22];9(4):516-523. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1039/B9PP00143D
The skin exposome. J Dermatol Sci [Internet]. 2017 [cited 2026 Sep 16]. Available from:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=%22The+skin+exposome%22+J+Dermatol+Sci+2017
Krutmann J, et al. Skin aging exposome. J Dermatol Sci [Internet]. 2021 [cited 2026 Jul 22]. Available from: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=%22Skin+aging+exposome%22+Krutmann
Mahmoud BH, et al. Effects of visible light on the skin. J Invest Dermatol [Internet]. 2010 [cited 2026 Jul 22]. Available from:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18248499/
Duteil L, et al. Visible light photoprotection and pigmentation. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed [Internet]. 2022 [cited 2026 Jul 22]. Available from: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=%22Visible+light+photoprotection+and+pigmentation%22+Duteil
Passeron T, et al. Photoprotection according to skin phototype and dermatoses: practical recommendations from an expert panel. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol [Internet]. 2021 [cited 2026 Jul 22]. Available from:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29285880/
Byrd AL, Belkaid Y, Segre JA. The human skin microbiome. Nat Rev Microbiol [Internet]. 2018 [cited 2026 Jul 22]. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.1038/nrmicro.2017.157
Boxberger M, Cenizo V, Cassir N, La Scola B. Challenges in skin microbiome research. Microorganisms [Internet]. 2021 [cited 2026 Jul 22]. Available from:
https://doi.org/10.3390/microorganisms9061303
Chen Y, et al. Artificial intelligence in cosmetic science: recent advances. Cosmetics [Internet]. 2023 [cited 2026 Jul 22]. Available from:
https://www.mdpi.com/search?q=Artificial+intelligence+in+cosmetic+science%3A+Recent+advances
Vora J, et al. Machine learning applications in pharmaceutical formulation development. AAPS PharmSciTech [Internet]. 2022 [cited 2026 Jul 22]. Available from:
Schneider SL, Lim HW. Review of environmental impacts of sunscreen ingredients. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed [Internet]. 2019 [cited 2026 Jul 22]. Available from:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=%22Review+of+environmental+impacts+of+sunscreen+ingredients%22
United Nations Environment Programme. Reports on marine pollution and sustainable cosmetics [Internet]. Nairobi: UNEP [cited 2026 Jul 22]. Available from:
https://www.unep.org/resources/reports
Osterwalder U, Herzog B. Future perspectives in sunscreen technologies. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed [Internet]. 2023 [cited 2026 Jul 22]. Available from:
Krutmann J, Passeron T, Lim HW. Photoprotection of the future: challenges and opportunities. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol [Internet]. 2024 [cited 2026 Jul 22]. Available from:
Copyright (c) 2026 Bhagyashree Dalvi, Pooja Kundu, Shivali Phadnis, Sushmita Kuswa, Pankaj Bhatt

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.
The International Journal of Innovative Science & Technology affairs require a formal written transfer of copyright from the author(s) for each article published. We therefore ask you to complete and return this form, retaining a copy for your records. Your cooperation is essential and appreciated. Any delay will result in a delay in publication.
I/we have read and agree with the terms and conditions stated Page 2 of this agreement and I/we hereby confirm the transfer of all copyrights in and relating to the above-named manuscript, in all forms and media, now or hereafter known, to the International Journal of Drug Regulatory affairs, effective from the date stated below. I/we acknowledge that the IJDRA is relying on this agreement in publishing the above-named manuscript. However, this agreement will be null and void if the manuscript is not published in the IJIST.
Download link for COPYRIGHT FORM


